 You mean I Could Be A Show Cat?!?! |
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 New Exhibitor Guide
Exhibitor's Guide for shows sanctioned by The International Cat Association Upcoming Shows: Cat shows are listed online, in various cat magazines, newspapers and journals. Check the show dates and closing dates to be sure you have enough time to place your entry and make travel arrangements. Entry Forms and Flyers: Once you have requested and received your entry form, read it carefully. These forms may vary but in general the following information will be listed: Show Information Page: Information about show hotels, nearest airport and limo services, show hall hours, health information, cage sizes, and so on will be listed. ALL cats and kittens must be up to date on their vaccinations and free of parasites or any illness. ANY cat having an illness or parasite infestation within 21 days of the show will NOT be allowed to compete, nor any other cat in its household. The continued health and welfare of all thecats is paramount, and no exceptions will be made. Entry fees vary according to show. These fees are listed on the Summary page. Often clubs will offer discounts for early entries or for multiple-cat entries. While some clubs will allow you to pay your entry fees when you arrive at the show, most prefer that you send in your payment with your entry form. Note: Entry fees are NOT refundable if you do not attend the show. The Summary page has spaces for you to fill out your name, address, number of cats you are entering, and lists miscellaneous fees for "extras" such as advertising, grooming space if desired, and so on. This page will also tell you where to send your form and to whom checks should be made out. Entry Form: The entry form has several parts. There may be a separate section or page for household pets and for championship cats, or the form may simply require a check mark in the appropriate box. If you have never shown your cat before, or if it has not yet won a title, mark it as "Kitten", or "Novice" for cats over eight months old, "Household Pet Kitten" or "Senior" if you are entering a household pet over eight months of age. (Note: ALL household pets must be altered by the time they reach eight months or they cannot be shown in any organization.) Mark the gender of the cat, and the day or days it will be competing. For championship cats, the cat's registered name, breed, TICA registration number (except in CFA, cats may be shown once without this, but you must register them before you can show a second time or receive any titles or points you cat may win), and your cat's color. There are twenty color divisions for championship cats in TICA: four color categories: Solid, Tortoiseshell, Tabby, Silver/Smoke, and Particolor. For example a brown mackeral tabby and white Norwegian Forest Cat would be in the Traditional Particolor Division, a Seal Point Siamese would be in the Traditional Pointed Division, and so on. Your cat's color should be listed on its pedigree; if you are not sure, or if you think your cat's color might have changed as it matured, describe it as best you can on the form, or send a snapshot along with the entry. There are eight classes per show,and your cat will be in one of them. Kittens, Cats and Alters (for pedigreed cats), Household Pet Kittens, Household Pet Adults, Preliminary New Breed, Advanced New Breed, and New Trait. Your cat's class will not change unless it is a kitten on the first day of the show, and an adult on the second. Age of the cat is its age on the first date of the show, and its birthdate must be listed. Note: If you are showing a kitten whose eight-month birthday falls on Day Two of a two-day show, it will be in the Kitten class on Day One, and as a Novice adult on Day Two. You will also need to mark your cat's parents and their registration numbers, and the breeder's name. And of course, your own name, address, and telephone number. If someone else will be showing your cat for you, that person is designated as your "agent". Because TICA is a world-wide organization, there are different regions which aid in keeping track of scores and registry. Wisconsin is in the Great Lakes region. Household pets, since often their parents are unknown, are somewhat easier to enter. Name, TICA number, color and division (Solid, Tabby, Tortie, Pointed, or Shaded, and any of these patterns with white. Again, if you are unsure of your cat's color, describe it as best you can or send a snapshot. (A cat's color class can even be changed once you get to the show; for various reasons, this happens fairly frequently.) Age of a household pet is sometimes unknown, especially if it is a rescued stray. Ask your veterinarian the cat's approximate age and use that. Once again, owner's name, address and so on. Read over the form to check for errors or omissions, sign it, enclose your check and mail it to the entry clerk. Once the clerk receives your entry, he or she will send you a confirmation, along with directions to the show hall and hotels. Read this carefully as well to be sure it is correct. Before the Show: Be sure your cat is accustomed to its carrier - do this over several weeks for short periods. If you can, take your cat for short rides in the car so it will get used to car noises. If your cat is shy, ask your friends to help out by picking up the cat, placing it in its carrier and taking it out. Have them look in its ears (the judge will do this, so be sure ears are squeaky-clean) and handle its paws. A show bath is vital for all cats entering a show. It removes oils and dirt from the coat and kills any fleas or parasites on the skin. Different breeds require different methods of presenting the coat, so shampoos and coat treatments vary. The bath is even more important for the household pet entry than for the Championship cat (if this is possible!) since HHPs are judged almost solely on grooming, health and personality. Longhaired cats benefit from blow-drying, but do this cautiously if your cat is not used to it. All cats must have nails clipped front and rear; you can do this yourself if you know how (remembering to just snip off the claw tip and NOT cut near the quick), or ask your vet. Going to the Show: Be sure to transport your cat in a secure carrier. Leashes and collars are not always secure, and cats carried in arms can panic and escape, so invest in a sturdy carrier - they are inexpensive, safe, and last a long time. If you need to travel a long distance and stay in a hotel, be sure the one you select allows pets. The show flyer will list several hotels near the hall, and often even their rates. Be sure to bring along a litterbox, food and food dishes, and your cat's favorite toys. Litter is provided by the club hosting the show. Always check your hotel room to be sure it is cat-safe and escape-proof before you let your cat out of its carrier. Many exhibitors invest in special collapsible tents or cages to keep their cats in at hotels. Be a considerate guest and clean up any messes your cat might make. Seasoned exhibitors often keep a travel bag of cat cleanup items - spray carpet/upholstery cleaner, travel vac, towellettes, and so on. The Show Hall: Plan to arrive at the show hall about an hour before the start time, at least on the first day. Be sure to bring the confirmation letter you received (but don't panic if you forget it). You will need to check in at the front gate, verify any information or make any changes, and pay any fees still due before the show starts. The entry clerk will tell you where to "bench" your cat and give you your show catalog. Exhibit cages are provided for each entry, a single cage per cat. Although cage sizes can vary somewhat, the usual size is 22"x22"x22" for a single cage and 22"x22"x44" for a double cage. Only one cat or two kittens are allowed per single cage. If you ae showing only one cat and want a larger size cage, you may opt to pay a small extra fee when you send in your entry and have a double cage. (Note: Sometimes, even though you have entered and paid for only a single cage, the hosting club may assign you a double. This is because there may have been extra "half-cages" left over after all entries were benched. If this does occur, you will not be charged for the larger cage.) Cages must be covered on three sides, top and bottom. Curtains can be as simple as bath or beach towels held on with binder clips or clothespins, and another towel or small rug for the bottom or as fancy and elaborate as you like. This is strictly up to you: the idea is to protect your cat from drafts and germs and to keep it from seeing its neighbors. Sometimes clubs will have special prizes for cages decorated in the theme of the show. The club also provides chairs for exhibitors. You will also need to bring a litter box; litter is provided free of charge by the club. You will need food for your cat, food and water bowls. You may want to bring a small cooler or lunch box if your cat food needs to be kept cool. You will need spoons or forks for catfood, a litter scoop, and perhaps your cat's favorite toy or bed. don't forget grooming items, nail clippers, your cat's vaccination records and pedigree if applicable. Once you get your cat settled in its benching cage, spend a few minutes talking to it and soothing it. Remember, showhalls are noisy, with lots of strange smells and sights, and your cat will probably be nervous. Give it some time to settle down before you try to do a last-minute grooming. This is a good time to look through your catalog. Find your cat's class, then its number. This number is assigned to your cat for the entire show, even if it is transferred to another class. Remember this number, write it on the catalog cover, or on your hand. Check all information listed to be sure it is correct - if you find any errors, locate the show's Master Clerk and give him/her the correct information. Once you have checked the catalog, take a look around the show hall. You can do this from your benching area while you are calming your cat. You will see the judging rings, generally around the perimeter of the room, each with the ring number, the judge's name, and sometimes the person or agency sponsoring that ring, and whether the ring is "Allbreed" or "Specialty" (more on this later.). Get a general idea of the layout, exits, restrooms, food vendor, show vendors, master clerk, etc. Later on, you may want to look at the vendors' booths or get some lunch. Show Etiquette: All exhibitors shold be familiar with and comply with the show rules (some are covered in a very general way in this article). If you want a copy of the show rules, you may write to The International Cat Association, PO Box 2684, Harlingen, Texas 78551. People carrying cats to or from a ring have the right of way. Try to give them room. They will do the same for you. If you hear someone yell, "Cat out!" or "Cat loose!", stop and stand still. Don't chase the cat or try to catch it. If you are near an exit, close the door and stay put; let the owner catch the cat. When you hear "Cat caught!", doors can be re-opened. Exhibitors are not in any way allowed to make known to any judge in any ring which cat belongs to them or indicate how their cats have scored in other rings. Exhibitors may not sit at ringside holding cats unless the judge has specifically asked them to. And no one, exhibitors or spectators, are allowed behind the judging table (except when putting a cat in a judging cage) except the ring staff. Exhibitors may not take any actions which might cause harm to cats or people at the show. Never touch another person's cat without permission; it is easy to spread germs. A good thing to have on hand is waterless hand sanitizer (both for you and for people wanting to touch YOUR cat). You will see the judges cleaning their platforms and their hands between each animal and the stewards will clean each cage between cats. If your cat should require special caging during judging (for example, it may be frightened of other cats and need an end cage), you need to make this known to the ring clerk BEFORE the cat's number is called so the clerk will have time to make special arrangements without inconveniencing other exhibitors. You may, at the beginning of your class, give the clerk a note advising the judge that your cat is a first-timer; judges will often spend extra time with a nervous newcomer. Judging and Scoring: When the judge is ready to see your cat, the clerk will announce the cats needed in a specific class and their numbers; for example, "Longhair cats numbers 101 through 109 to ring four." You will only have time for a VERY quick fluff-up; your cat must be ready for the ring. Be courteous; don't make the judge wait for a second or third call to see your cat. Take your cat to the ring and place it quietly in the cage bearing its number. If the judge has another cat out on the platform, it is alway a safe thing to wait until he puts that cat cat back into its cage before carrying yours past. Do not speak to the judge. Then sit down to watch. Cats are judged against others of like breed, age, and coat length. Shorthair household pet kittens compete against other shorthaired household pet kittens, adult Persians against other adult Persians, and so on. If this is a "Specialty" ring, the judge will handle longhaired and shorthaired cats separately, then award finals to each group. In an "Allbreed" ring, all cats in a class will be seen, and the judge will award finals chosen from the entire group. In order to gain the title of Champion, Champion Alter (neutered or spayed cats) or Master (household pets), the cat must earn 300 points plus one final award. These points are accumulated from the Color, Division, and finals points. Cats are judged to see how closely they come to the written standards for their breeds rather than against each other. This is done using the following method. Color awards: The judge will handle cats of like color within a particular breed. For example, all solid white Persians, with the best having a blue "flat" (plastic strip indicating Best of Color placement - these belong to the club and may not be taken home) hung on its cage. The second best white Persian will receive a red flat, yellow goes to third, green to fourth and white to fifth. Then the judge will see all the solid black Persians and repeat the process. From the top solid-color cats, the judge will select the best, second, and third of the (Solid) division. (The points earned for color and division awards are listed in the catalog). Then the judge will repeat the process for the other divisions: Particolor, Tabby, and so on. At the end of each breed section, the judge will often (not required, but often done) announce his/her best of that breed. Then the judge will continue with the next breed in that class. (Breeds, colors, etc. are all called alphabetically) Once the judge has seen all the cats in a class, he/she will determine the very best of that class: Finals awards. These numbers are not announced; the clerk will instead call, "Allbreed kitten finals" or whichever class, and that ring. It is up to you to check the ring for your cat's number. Finals awards are selected from breed winners, although it is possible to have a second, third, or even fourth-placing cat in a single breed final. If 25 cats are competing, the judge awards the top 10 finals. If only 24 cats compete, the judge will award the top 9, if 23, the top 8, if 22, the top 7, if 21, the top 6; if 20 or fewer, the top 5. Household Pet Class: Household pets do not have breed standards, but they have to work just as hard to earn their titles. These cats come from all walks of life; they may be a rescued stray, a purebred cat who does not meet its breed standards for some reason, or a cat from the local shelter. (A large number of very high-scoring cats in TICA are, indeed, rescues) Household pets are judged on cleanliness and grooming (I can't emphasize this enough for HHPs), health - the TICA HHP standard calls for a cat that "seems to smile with good health and contentment", and "Show presence" - that is, a cat who quite obviously KNOWS he is the star of the show. A timid cat can learn in time to enjoy shows, but if your cat doesn't like it- you can tell - DON'T force him, and NEVER punish a cat if it doesn't do well. (These are pets, remember?) Household pets compete for Color and Division just like the Championship class, but not for best of breed. Household pet kittens do not have Divisions, just color, pattern, and coat length. Keeping Track: A scoring page is included in your catalog. This will provide you with guidelines for marking your cat's points and wins throughout the show. (It is a good idea to make copies of the scoring sheets before sending them to the TICA office.) Once your cat has earned the points needed for its "Champion", "Champion Alter", or "Master" title, you will need to send in the scoring sheet, along with the listed fee. The TICA office will process this and send you a certificate with your cat's new title. After CH, CHA, MS (I'm abbreviating them), it gets tougher. Your cat will need a total of 6 finals and 1000 points to become a Grand (GC, GCHA, GM). Then on for Double Grand, Triple, Quadruple and - that Nirvana of cat titles - "Supreme". Points are also accumulated for Regional and International wins, with plaques and rosettes given at the Regional and Annual Award shows. These lucky few are the very best of the best from the entire world. But with all the scoring, points, title, and excitement remember: Your cat is your pet first, pedigreed or not, and a cat show is meant to be a positive, fun experience. If you don't win, especially at first, don't get discouraged. It's more common NOT to final at your first show. It takes time and experience to pick up all the little tricks that go into making a top show cat. Keep your eyes open, watch the experienced exhibitors, and remember - they were "Newbies" once, too. Another thing to keep in mind is that often a judge who didn't give your cat a second glance today may well turn around and place him first tomorrow. (It happens!) And if five out of six judges final the same cats, there is no guarantee that Judge Number Six will do the same thing. While it is forbidden to talk to the judge during your class, you may ask questions later on, during a break or after the show. Many judges will be glad to give you pointers. Mentoring: Many TICA clubs have initiated mentoring programs for new exhibitors, assigning to them an experienced club member to "show them the ropes" and make that first show a positive one. If this is your first show, mark this on your entry form, and a mentor will be available to you. He or she will likely have had experience showing the same breed as yours, and will guide you through the process of presenting your cat, scoring its points, and the tricks to make showing easy and fun. Above all, enjoy yourself, make new friends, learn about cats, and come back again! We hope this guide will make your first show a little less confusing. If you have any questions that weren't answered here, feel free to contact us (ymircats@hotmail.com) or any TICA club.   Sundance of Club Red relaxes in his show cage while awaiting his next ring.  Many household pets, like Marie, have been rescued by loving owners.  Taz (sitting) and Brody love to greet spectators. A true show cat will have an outgoing personality like these two.  A show bath is vital, to remove oils and mats from the hair coat. Sody is just out of the tub and even though she doesn't look very happy, she is used to being bathed.  Take some time before judging begins to look around the show hall. Find out where the judging rings are, the restrooms, vendors and food court. Above all, get a good night's sleep before the show! It's a long day for you and your cat!  Sometimes simply packing the car can be the biggest challenge! Often friends go to shows together and even share hotel rooms! Surprisingly, the cats adjust quite well to this! 
Whether your cat wins or loses, you make new friends, learn new skills, and have a wonderful time at cat shows!  TICA now has a Junior Achievers' program for young people ages 7 to 18, where kids can show their cats and learn! Young exhibitors receive special awards and prizes, and often clubs offer discounted entry fees for them. For more information, contact the entry clerk of the show you are interested in attending, or you may contact uus: judithjmcnally@gmail.com | Return Home | Contact Us | Exhibitor Guide | Show Info Purrfectly Moovelous | Online Catalog | Twisted Whiskers | Kittens and cats available and past litters | Entry Form Purrfectly Moovelous | Summary Sheet Purrfectly Moovelous | |
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